One local chef is giving Utica a run for its money.
Word is out that Tony Imbesi’s specialty greens are the best in town, becoming the talk at tables where hungry patrons crave the savory sauté: the Market Diner in Syracuse. Imbesi, who was the executive chef at Amore (now Papa Gallo) in Fayetteville, puts his own spin on the regional dish.
“It’s certainly not the first time people have had greens, because of me,” he said, acknowledging the dish’s popularity. But people have been quite receptive to his twist on the traditional recipe. “I feel good about it. For me, one of the most gratifying parts of doing what I do is seeing how [my] patrons react.”
Imbesi, who began his career as a culinary chef in the early 2000s, earned dual certification from the Art Institute of Fort Lauderdale and the American Culinary Federation. His resume includes working at high class restaurants in Florida, Massachusetts and here in Syracuse; Lemongrass and Frankie’s Bistro among them. In September 2009, Imbesi purchased the Market Diner with his wife Elaine, whose family has run it for more than 30 years.
So what exactly makes his palate-pleasing plate unique?
Without giving away his recipe, Imbesi indicated some of the key ingredients that make his greens different.
“I use a blend of sausage products, which have quite a different amount of seasoning versus its counterpart, prosciutto,” he said, noting the Italian-cured ham is typically what’s used in Utica greens.
He also uses Parmigiano-Reggiano, which he calls the “undisputed king of all cheeses,” and Pecorino Romano – imported only.
“Domestic Romano is made with cow’s milk,” he said. “Imported Romano is made with sheep’s milk, which tastes considerably different – much more salt, much more pungent and in the end, it lends itself to making the dish more hearty and tasty.”
Imbesi recommends using quality olive oil imported from Greece, Sicily or Italy, and fresh bread crumbs – never canned.
The cooking application, he said, employs three different methods: boiling, sautéing and baking, allowing three unique opportunities to, well, mess up.
“There’s a lot of things that could go wrong, from just overcooking them; over boiling the escarole making it tough and bitter, to under cooking it, making it too raw,” he said. “It’s all made with care, every step, every time. And if it’s not right, I’ll give it to the employees and start over.
“It’s been done before,” he added.
Greens can be ordered as a side or a meal and Imbesi suggests eating them with a “big hunk of Italian bread,” particularly the heel. Customers are encouraged to get creative, too. Ask for Tony’s greens atop Philly cheesesteaks or in omelets and wraps. These ideas aren’t printed on the menu, but if patrons want it, the kitchen will provide it.
“People shouldn’t be afraid to ask,” said Imbesi, whose booming business reflects his inviting personality.
Tony’s greens are offered most days of the week, and on Wednesdays, the Market Diner features a Celebrate Italian theme. Specials include soups, an antipasto salad, Nonna’s lasagna, a Roma veal panini and another regional favorite, chicken riggies.
Hours are from 5 a.m. until 9 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays, and 5 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Sundays. Location? 2100 Park St., next to the Regional Market.
Breakfast, lunch and dinners are served any time of day, so if you get a hankering for greens before dawn?
Imbesi smiled and said, “Come and get ‘em.”
