lellen, Wed, October 7th, 2009
Once known for its magnificent monthly menu centerfold, the food world’s Playboy is played out. Was it the Internet? The Food Channel? People’s time? The economy?
Perhaps a little of all of the above, but for me it started with former New York Times food critic and author, “Tender to the Bone,” Ruth Reichl. She radically changed the format and for the life of me, I can’t even tell you why it left me cold. But it did. And, I heard this over and over from lifetime subscribers. Don’t get me wrong, I admire Reichl as a writer and even a foodie. But I think perhaps the magazine became too much inside the food scene and less accessible for folks out here in the rest of the English speaking world.
The thing about Gourmet was that while being essentially about good tasting food, it was also about good taste. It may have had an elitist air, but it also had a sense of adventure, glamour and practicality, too. In addition, there was a high quality standard in that each recipe worked, and worked well. One could even try out a recipe on an important dinner party with good results. This isn’t always the case with its competitors such as Bon Appetit, or even Martha Stewart’s first recipe collections.
Let’s raise a glass to all the wonderful dishes this classic magazine brought to our kitchens and our tables. It may be good bye, but we’ll always have the recipes.
